Sent: 04/17/96
It's lunch time. I see a small square building with a cafe sign coming into view near the roadway. I don't want to get my hopes up yet. Many cafes, motels and gas stations we pass are vacant. As we get closer I see cars and pickup trucks in the driveway. We roll up to the sidewalk and lean our bikes against the outside of the building. A few patrons are leaving. They glance in our direction as we take off our bicycle helmets and gloves. I fish around in the bag for the black, cotton knit baseball style hat my son, Kevin and his girlfriend Gen gave me. I put it on, hoping this adequately covers my matted, wet hair.
We both order the special of the day: chicken-fried steak and mashed potatoes with gravy over all, plus two big glasses of iced tea and two glasses of ice water. We can see our bikes from where we sit. Two old men, one in blue jeans and a T-shirt and the other in khaki pants and a plaid shirt, stop in front of them and look them over. They discuss them for quite a long time before getting into their pickup truck.
As leave the cafe, three boys about 12 years old come riding up to us on their mountain bikes. "Hey, are those your bikes?" "They are way cool." "How much did you pay for them?" We smile and start to answer their questions but they have already zipped out of the parking lot and on down the street.
We put our helmets back on and start pedaling. Hey, what happened to the wind when we were eating lunch? It is coming at us sideways now. The sun is still high in the sky. I wish for an overcast, cloudy day or even just a cloud to break the sun's intensity.
Someone elses's picture of those beautiful ocotillo.
My mind wanders to the scenery. The wildflowers look as if they were in spectacular bloom two weeks ago, except for the ocotillo. They are in bloom now (see picture right), nodding their heads in animated, breezy conversation. The mountains ahead look like chunks of chocolate with heat bloom on them. The creosote bushes continue along with us as a constant in our desert travels.
The sun's intensity increases as the afternoon wears on. We look for shade for a break and find it under a deserted gas station's canopy. We search through our panniers for the grape juice and the peanut butter crackers. In the shade the temperature feels moderate and the breeze cooling.
We start out again. Only ten miles until we reach our destination, We'll stay at a motel tonight. The campgrounds here are level gravel beds, with no trees and no picnic tables.
Just as we crest the hill we see town. We ride in going downhill, a pleasant end to our riding day. We check into the motel. Ken pays $32 for the large room with the queen size bed. As we enter, I glance around the room. It's OK. The walls are painted a neutral sand color. The bedspread is has a brown print and the floor has an old variegated brown carpeted with cut pile. We flop in a chair to cool down and rest our legs.
Soon, I can't stand the grit and salt on my body any longer. I go into the bathroom. The lower part of the wall is covered in maroon marble plastic tile with a black tile border. The upper part is sand colored. I shower. I feel so much better. Alas, my clothes still are gritty. I put them in the sink, wash them and hang them up to dry In the desert air.
After Ken finishes his shower we walk down the street, observing the one or two stores open. It's a bit early but we decide to look for a place to have dinner.
Carol
Itinerary: